Toronto Islands and Harbourfront

By Marilyn MacKellar, SLA Toronto Chapter

One of the gems of Toronto is a small group of islands in the lake. This archipelago has a diversity of attractions, and it can be reached by ferry from the waterfront at the end of Bay St. The first stop on the LRT line from the subway in Union Station is just opposite the ferry docks. There are three ferries to the Islands in the summer, one to each end of the group of islands and one to the middle

Apart from all the things you can do on the Islands, the ferry ride is worth taking even if you don't stay. Not only do you get a beautiful view of the Toronto waterfront from the boat, but, on a hot day, it's nice to cool down on the water for a half hour. The Web site is at: http://www.city.toronto.on.ca/parks/island/index.htm

Here's a guide to what's there, so you can choose where you want to go.

Ward's Island and Algonquin

Take the Ward's Island ferry to the eastern end of the group, and you will find two small communities which date back to the time when the Islands held the summer cottages (and even hotels) of many Toronto residents. There are no private cars allowed on the Islands, so these people bring all their groceries and the plants for their gardens (even trees) over by ferry and transport them in interesting carts and bicycle attachments. Many residents are artists. There is a Montessori school for Island children, a community centre (with light refreshments, including fresh lemonade), a fire hall (with a fire truck), a senior's residence, and a yacht club.

Ward's Island is the one you see to the left as you leave the ferry, and a wander along its small streets is very pleasant, with small houses and gardens and views of the lake. If you turn right from the ferry you will pass the yacht basin and come to an arched bridge on the right over the waterway - the route to Algonquin Island. Again, the houses are lovely, and the view from the waterfront is also worth seeing.

Back over the bridge to Ward's Island and across to the boardwalk to the south side, you can enjoy a beautiful view of the lake and the seabirds (and likely some locals). Turn right, toward the west, and you will soon see the Rectory (416 203-2152), which serves full meals and lovely teas.

Centre Island

In the middle of the island group is Centre Island, which is a large park oriented toward pleasure. You will get there if you keep walking west from Ward's or you can take the Centre Island ferry from the mainland.

Centre Island offers a children's amusement park, with a small train, animals, miniature golf, and along the beach there are snack bars and a pier out into the lake. You can rent bicycles here if you want a faster form of transport. There is a long pool with fountains, many picnic tables and pavilions, and an occasional exhibition. Where the Centre Island ferry lands you can view another yacht club (there are three of them in the Islands) and a marina where sailing lessons are available. As a result, you will see some sailing activity in the water of the harbour between Centre Island and the city.

Hanlan's Point

The third ferry goes to Hanlan's Point, which is the far western end of the island group, and you can also get here on foot if you keep walking west.

Here is a small airport (the subject of much city controversy in the last mayoral election) and more beaches (including a nude beach), with views toward the western waterfront and Ontario Place. There is also a school run by the Toronto Regional School Board for elementary school nature instruction, and a small nature reserve is close by. The former nature school building, a smaller frame building, has been converted into artists' studios. There is a nature guide at: http://www.city.toronto.on.ca/parks/island/index.htm. Hanlan's Point has a snack bar and washrooms.

The Queen's Quay Terminal Building

West of the docks, when you return from the Islands, at 207 Queen's Quay West, you can find an impressive old warehouse building which dates from 1926 and where goods shipped to Toronto were received. This building now houses a number of upscale shops, some nice restaurants, and a dance theatre, along with a community of condominium dwellers (see http://www.toronto.com/infosite/146662/). On the waterfront here are many tour boats - anything from a paddle boat to a three-master.

Harbourfront

Beyond the Terminal Building is an area of the waterfront called Harbourfront, donated by the Government of Canada for community activities. There are a number of buildings here and explorations will reveal craft studios, a shop selling Canadian crafts, photographic exhibitions, an art gallery, cafes, and other activities.

On the weekends this area is especially busy, with music offered (often free) in the amphitheatre and ethnic food available in the food tents. You can also buy crafts from many countries in little tented shops. This area is a good vantage point whenever there are fireworks in Toronto, especially for the 'Festival of Fire' displays.

Around the buildings are the artists' gardens, a variety of creative ideas for gardening, which will provide both amusement and appreciation of the skilled plantings. If you go along far enough (475 Queen's Quay West) you will find the Music Garden, planned by famed cellist Yo Yo Ma and designed by Julie Messervy on the scheme of the first of Bach's Suites for Unaccompanied Cello. There are concerts and dance performances here in the summer months.

Union Station

We shouldn't forget Union Station (65-75 Front St. W.), where this trip began. Construction on the terminal was begun in 1915. The station opened in 1927 and was almost demolished in 1970. Luckily for us, citizen concern and outcry saved it for today. This building is an architectural gem in our city and, although the outside is impressive with its colonnade, the interior space is a sight to see and the impression is always of soft light and airy distances. The destinations of the great trains are inset into the upper walls, and the workmanship is very fine and quite lovely. This was in the past, and continues to be now, the hub of train travel in Canada.

The Royal York, across the road, is one of a series of hotels built by the Canadian National Railway in association with its continental train system which ran from Union Station. You can tell CN hotels by the green pointed roofs, and the top of the Royal York was, until recently, tall enough to be a navigation point for sailors in the harbour.

The Dominion Public Building, to the east of Union Station, was originally built in the late 1920s as the customs house for Toronto. Its curved front provides an impressive approach to the station. It is still a Government of Canada building and houses one of the law libraries which support the Taxation Dept.